[Journal entry for October 5-6, 2009; The Timp]
October 5, 2009. I stand on Bear Mountain Bridge,
pleased to have finished this last piece of the Appalachian Trail that finishes
up my goal of walking the NY/NJ section. But it’s now 4:30 PM. I’ve come twenty-two
kilometers today and I need to continue on to find somewhere I can camp for the
night. The nearest shelter – the only
places where a backpacker can officially camp – is at West Mountain. I’ve slept there before. It’s in wonderful location with a great view.
I figure that I have two hours of daylight left and can just make it if I
hurry.
The Zoo, which I walked through a few minutes ago,
is now closed. I detour around it. At this point, I have two choices: The shelter is on the Suffern-Bear Mountain
Trail (SBM); I can take the direct route, the SBM, which is rather hilly, or I
can take a longer but flatter route that might be faster, given my rather tired
condition. I opt for the latter and walk
directly south through Doodletown, via the 1779E and
1779 trails. But here things go
awry. I make several wrong turns, each
taking some tens of minutes to correct.
Unfortunately, I do not know this area well, and many of the trail
intersections are tricky. The evening slowly dims and I find that I am barely
halfway to West Mountain shelter. I give
up, and decide to bivouac for the night.
I pick a place along the 1779 trail near where it crosses Timp Brook, ear the foot of Bald Mountain. I set up my
tent, nicknamed the Tent-of-Death by my kids, who found its cold weather
performance below their expectations and lay out my sleeping pad and sleeping
bag within it.
My campsite is in a stand of tall oak trees, just to
the east side of the trail. By this
time, the light has failed entirely and I cook my dinner of rice and sausage
and instant decaf coffee by flashlight.
I hear owls hooting in the distance.
I am very tired, and go to sleep soon after finishing my dinner, cleaning
up and hanging my supplies from a branch to deter animals.
October 6, 2009.
Although my campsite is in shadow, owing to being in a deep valley, I
can see that the sky is bright blue and that the day promises to be
splendid. I hike down to Timp Creek for water.
I encounter a fox, walking towards me on the trail. It looks at me curiously for a second or two
and then dashes away into the brush. I
cook breakfast of Ramen Noodles and eggs. Afterward, I pack up, don my knapsack
and head off. In just about a quarter
mile I come to a grassy spot with some sort of small shelter. This would have been a more picturesque spot
to have camped, had I known it was there – not that there was anything wrong
with my oak grove, of course. I continue
south along the 1779 trail, which steeply climbs up onto a ridge, until I meet
the Timp-Torne Trail (TT), which I take to the
east. I spot a doe among the trees
there. The TT leads past many boulder piles and torn-up south-facing scarps,
created by glaciers during the Ice Age.
I climb to the top of one massive rock outcrop, hoping for a view, only
to find the surrounding trees to be too tall.
Finally I come to an overlook that affords a very nice view of Stony
Point, Hook Mountain and the Hudson River.
I continue on, and am soon at the top of the Timp.
The Timp is a hill with an
oval, sparsely wooded summit area ringed with rock ledges that offer truly
spectacular views. I slowly walk around, admiring first the vegetation on the Timp, itself – goldenrod, moss, fern, blueberries, trees in
fall colors, and then gazing out from the overlooks. I can see last night’s unrealized goal, the
shelter on West Mountain. The trees on
the southern flank of West Mountain are rather sparse, with blueberry and fern
filling in the spaces. I suppose that to
be the result of a fire. The view
northward, up the axis of the Hudson River valley is probably the most
spectacular in the park. I am taken by
narrowness of the gorge and the steep yet smooth hills that surround it. It is a truly wonderful sight.
I then descend the steep western flank of the Timp, past a towering cliff, its base littered with
numerous giant blocks of fallen rocks, to reach Timp
Pass. I refill my water bottles here at
a little stream. I then ascend the
equally steep eastern flank of West Mountain.
The TT here follows a rocky ledge that looks to the southeast, affording
a great view of the Timp. It’s about 11:30 when I reach West Mountain
Shelter. The sun is shining brightly and
the rock pavement is pleasantly warm. I
spend a hour there relaxing, writing in my
journal. I then cross West Mountain,
connect with the SBM, and head south. My
pickup point is in Stony Point, just beyond the southeastern edge of the park.
The scenery along the SBM is very pleasant, with
several beautiful fields of fern and blueberry.
The views are nice, too, though much less dramatic than from the Timp. I have
specifically chosen a route that avoids the section of the SBM that descends
the southern flank of Pingyp Mountain, for I remember
it to be very difficult. But I do have
to descend the Cat’s Elbow, which is almost as bad, especially at the end of a
long day and with a backpack. But I take
it slowly and carefully and have no problems.
I connect with the 1777 trail, which follows an old,
deeply eroded woods road, and follow it eastward and steeply downhill to the
park border in Stony Point, New York. I
come across a small timber rattler along the way. It coils itself up into a protective posture
and waits for me to pass. It’s about 3PM
when I reach the park gate, so today’s hike has taken about six and a half
hours.