[Bill
Menke’s Journal for Fieldtrip 13D of the QMIII
Project, Downeast Maine, July 14-20, 2013] During
this trip, LDEO Summer Intern Philip Boody
and I (Bill Menke) searched
for seismometer sites in Washington County, Maine.
July
14, 2013. I picked Philip up in New York
City at 10AM. We drove more or less
straight north, arriving in the Bangor Maine area at 6 PM. We passed an osprey in its nest, atop a power
transmission pole right off of I95 (on the east side of the highway between
miles 139 and 140).
We
first dropped off gear at Kelley Storage in Orono and
then had a picnic dinner at Grotto Cascade Park in Bangor. This little park,
nestled against a low cliff near the Penobscot River, has a decorative
waterfall and fountain. We speculated
whether it is wholly artificial, or whether it is based upon a natural spring. A stream flows down the cliff, but our map
shows no lake or other water source above. We had a dinner of steak and
couscous, cooked on a Coleman stove.
Afterwards, we walked along Route 2, which parallels the river, passing
Bangor Dam and Salmon Pool Park. The
park seemed to be closed, and several of park buildings (if that’s what they
were) seemed rather run down. We found
one spot, south of the park, where we could walk down to river level to admire
the view.
We
spent the night at the Brewer Motel, off of Route 1A in the neighboring town of
Brewer Maine.
July
15, 2013. We spent the mornings shopping
in Bangor, buying supplies at the Lowes and Sears. We then drove Route 9 to Washington County.
We
stopped at the Whaleback overlook, along Route 9, west of the town of Beddington. This
high point, on an esker, provides a great view of the Union River as it winds
through a broad wetland. Lead Mountain
is in the distance towards the northeast.
We
stopped very briefly at the Log Landing campsite on the Machias
River near Wesley Maine. My worries that
it would be crowded proved unfounded, for we were the only campers at that
extraordinarily beautiful site. It’s a
shame that these public facilities are so underutilized.
We
visited the Forest Service office in Jonesboro Maine, spending an hour chatting
with Sgt. Courtney Hammond, who I knew from my previous trips, and another
ranger, Paul Perry. Mr. Perry mentioned
to me that radon levels increased in a well several tens of kilometers
northeast of Acadia National Park, right after the 2006 earthquake
sequence. I offered the opinion that it
probably was a coincidence, for the fault plane of a magnitude 4 earthquake, like the 2006 mainshock,
is only a hundred meters in length, and one would normally expect significant
stress changes out to a few fault lengths – not hundreds. Still, one could not rule out the possibility
that both the well water changes and the earthquakes were caused by an as yet
unrecognized and broader earth movement.
Stg.
Hammond mentioned to me that he had come down to New York and participated in
the Hurricane Sandy emergency response. How nice of him to do so! My mother and
her East Rockaway NY neighbors were very badly affected by that storm and
relied heavily upon emergency workers to get their lives back into order.
We
also were given some good advice on potential seismometer sites.
We
had a late lunch at the River’s Edge Drive In restaurant, off Route 1 in Machias Maine. We
ate a picnic table out back that had a great view of the tidal part of the Machias River. The
river is about a quarter mile wide here and its banks are lined with salt water
grasses such as Spartina alterniflora.
We sighted gulls, cormorants and an osprey.
We
then drove Route 92 down to the end of the peninsula south of Machias, where we hoped to place a seismometer. We stopped at Jasper Beach, on the east side
of the peninsula, which looks out onto Machias
Bay. The afternoon was sunny and clear
and the view was spectacular. The beach,
completely composed of reddish brown cobbles, is like no other Maine beach I
know. We walked the rock bluffs at the
south end of the beach. They are
composed of a rock that while very solid, is composed of many angular fragments
that have been welded together, without any pore space. These rocks are eroding and making the
beach’s cobbles. I was uncertain of the lithology, but later learned that the rocks are a rhyolite, a highly silicic
volcanic rock (and thus not technically jasper). We speculated on how the cobbles of the
beach, which are in places heaped up in irregular mounds, got to be so
arranged. We also viewed a small wetland, tucked behind the beach.
We
then drove down to the very end of the peninsula, to a point where we could see
Starboard Island. We drove a minor road,
Rose Lane, to see whether we could view Howard Cove, but found the woods to be
too dense to get a view.
Returning
to Log Landing Campsite, we had a dinner of ham and macaroni and cheese. After dinner, I walked north on Machias River Road to the West Branch campsite, were I viewed
a small set of rapids and chatted with an angler. I also visited a small wetland, located to
the west of Log Landing, and picked some blueberries for tomorrow’s breakfast.
July
16, 2013. We had a breakfast of blueberry pancakes, using the blueberries that
I picked last night. We then drove to
Jasper Beach, where we met Mrs. Linda Lund, a local landowner who gave us
permission to install a seismometer her land at Howard Cove. We drank coffee together, sitting on the
cobbles of the beach, discussing plans.
Mrs.
Lund then took us on a tour of her property.
She is a very energetic lady and eagerly led us along trails through the
woods that led to the Howard Cove sea cliff.
The view from the cliffs out into Machias Bay
is quite remarkable. The sea beneath the
cliffs is full of large rocky stacks, girded with seaweed. The water is turquoise blue and relatively
calm. A fish weir seems to have been
built out in the bay between two nearby Islands, Starboard and Stone. I can
just make out Libby Island Light, in the distance between the two nearby
islands.
We
picked out a site for the seismometer and, after Mrs. Lund had left, spent the
rest of the day building a seismometer vault on it. It was hard work, for we had to carry quite a
bit of heavy material through the woods to the cliffs.
We
drove Eastern Ridge Road, in Northfield Maine, on the way back, looking for
another possible seismometer site. Back at Log Landing campsite, we had a
dinner of chicken and dumplings (from a can).
I went swimming in the river to cool off and clean up. Later, I also took a walk up Machias River Road and visited the wetland again.
July
17, 2013. We had a breakfast of scrambled eggs at Log Landing. We then drove Machias River Road, and its northward extension, Little
River Road, as far as the town of Grand Lake Stream, looking for more
seismometer sites. We stopped numerous
times examine the terrain. Some of the more
picturesque sites included: Wonderland Campground, on the Machias
River, which has three tent sites among trees; First Machias
Lake, off of Stud Mill Road. It is a
long narrow lake created by damming the river; and Second Machias
Lake campground, which has a boat launch and only one tent site.
We
stopped at the office of the Downeast Lakes Land
Trust in the town of Grand Lake Stream, for several of the sites that we
identified were on their land. We met
with their Executive Director, Mr. Mark Berry, who gave us a map that showed
their complete holdings. We then drove
the three roads west and north of Grand Lake Stream, Fourth Lake Road, Dobsis Dam Road and Farm Cove Mountain Road, stopping
numerous times to inspect potential sites.
Two picturesque spots were: Otter Point, which has a nice view of Pocumcus Lake, and Dobsis Dam,
with its surrounding lakes and wetlands.
Dobsis Dam has an interesting wooden fish
ladder.
We
drove the paved road system back, stopping at the Wabanaki
Cultural Center in Calais Maine in order to use their WiFi
connection. We also stopped briefly at Salmon Pond, off of Machias
River Road south of Log Landing, for the view.
Back
at Log Landing Campsite, we had a dinner of spare ribs.
July
18, 2013. Rain fell during the night but the morning was clear. We ate a
pancake breakfast and then met with Mr. Ryan Maker, a forest service ranger, at
the Wesley facility. He gave us
permission to operate a seismometer at Camp Vick, on the Machias
River and took us over to the site. It
is a very pretty spot on a knoll overlooking the river, this section of which
has stands of pickerelweed and a beaver lodge.
We
made a trip to Bangor to buy more supplies and to pick up a geophone vault box
from our storage locker in Orono. We saw some kind of small predatory bird –
perhaps a kite – hovering over a blueberry field on our way back. We then spent
the rest of the afternoon and early evening installing the vault.
I
went for a long swim at Log Landing campsite, for I was hot and very dirty. I
worked my way upstream to the confluence of the West Branch and the main branch
of the Machias, and then up the West Branch to the Machias River Road bridge, fighting the current by
half-swimming and half-wading. The
distance was not long – perhaps only a quarter mile – but took at least a half
hour. I sat for a few minutes on a broad
ledge of granite, next to a set of low rapids.
I then floated back to the camp.
We
had kielbasa and macaroni and cheese for dinner.
July
19, 2013. We had a breakfast of
scrambled eggs and English muffins.
After breaking camp, we drove Machias River
Road and Little River Road north to the town of Grand Lake Stream, and then
Amazon Road and Pleasant Lake Road north to the town of Topsfield Maine. We stopped to admire a herd of shaggy, long horned
Highland cows, grazing by the side of Route 6.
We then spent several hours driving a roughly northwest path, through
the towns of Kingman, Macwahoc and Mattawamkeag. We
stopped at a parcel of Maine Public Reserved Land off of Route 2A east of Macwahoc, and walked a dirt road south through it. We passed one rock ledge with glacial
scratches, but found nothing that might be suitable for a seismometer; the
woods are too dense for a solar panel to work.
We
then drove to Bethel Maine, a drive of some hundreds of miles which took till
early evening. I dropped Philip off at Bethel Outdoors Adventure, a campground
where he was meeting friends. I went for a walk along the Androscoggin River at
the River Rest Area, off Route 2 in Bethel, and then checked into the Stony
Brook Recreation campground in Hanover Maine, a few miles to the east. I had a dinner of eggs and English Muffins,
sitting at a picnic table at my campsite. A strong thunderstorm hit around 9AM,
and I retreated to my tent, as much to keep it from flying away in the wind as
to prevent myself from getting drenched.
July
20, 2013. I arose at about 6:30AM, ate at breakfast of scrambled eggs and
English muffins, packed up and headed up Route 26 to Grafton Notch State
Park. I spent about six hours climbing
Old Speck Mountain, but as this hike is documented elsewhere I shall not repeat
it here. After the hike I drove straight
back to New York, reaching my home in Tappan at 9:50 PM.