[Bill Menke’s Journal for Fieldtrip 13F of the QMIII Project, Bangor
area, Downeast and Northern Maine, August 9-24, 2013] During this trip, Columbia
University Graduate Student Helen Janiszewski, LDEO
Summer Intern Philip Boody and I
(Bill Menke) installed seismometers in Washington County and Aroostook
County, Maine.
August 9, 2013. I pick Helen up at
Lamont at 9AM and we head north in my Ford Escape SUV. We arrive in Bangor Maine at around 6PM,
where we meet Philip, who has driven down from New Sweeden
in his VW Jetta station wagon. We are staying at the Travelodge, off Exist
182 of Interstate 95. We have dinner at
Dysart’s Restaurant in Bangor. I have
fried Haddock.
August 10, 2013. The morning is sunny. I take an early walk along Route 2 west of
the Interstate. I spot a muskrat by a
stream. I then have a continental
breakfast at the Trevelodge. We spend the morning
buying supplies in Bangor’s main commercial district at Stillwater Avenue, and
especially at Lowes. We then have a
picnic lunch of salami sandwiches by a pond by Taylor Road in Orono. Many
different types of wildflowers, including thistle and goldenrod, are in bloom
along the bank. We examine some kind of small silo located beside the pond,
along a section of road that might once have been a railway line. We can’t deduce its purpose. The area around
the pond has several hiking trails and woods roads. We walk a short way down several, to get a
little exercise. We also take a quick
look at the Pushaw Lake Campground, in case we ever
want to use it. It is a commercial
campground reminiscent of one my family regularly vacationed at when I was a
child. An antique car, a 1911 Maxwell, is
parked by the office. I walk down to the shore of Pushaw Lake, which is large and quite choppy, for the
afternoon has turned breezy. After
lunch, we purchase deep discharge marine batteries at Sears. We have oriental food for dinner at the Tea
Garden restaurant in Bangor.
August 11, 2013. It’s another sunny
day. After a quick breakfast at the
Travelodge, we all drive to Peaks-Kenny State Park, in order to view the US
Geological Survey’s seismic station “PKME”, which is located in the park. We drive up Route 15 through Dover-Foxcroft Maine, getting a fine view of Borestone
Mountain, to our north. Peaks-Kenny
State Park is located on the southwestern shore of Sebec
Lake. The lake is a few miles across,
wooded along its shores, with a dramatic view of Borestone
Mountain beyond the far shore. We walk a
trail that passes the seismic station, which starts at the west end of the swim
beach. The station proves to be a much
larger and more permanent facility than the temporary stations we are planning
to deploy, and is equipped with a satellite dish antenna. We walk the rest of the trail, which is a
loop, through woods that contain some remarkably large specimens of Eastern
Hemlock and White Birch. The hemlocks do
not seem to be infested by the Woolly Adelgid
insects, which have so devastated that species of tree in New York. We come across an unusual picnic table along
the trail – tall and built into a pile of rocks. It is some sort of art project. After finishing the loop, we have lunch at
another artsy picnic table, built into a large granite boulder by the
bathhouse.
After lunch, we drive over to
Katahdin Ironworks State Park, on Katahdin Ironworks Road, and examine the
large iron furnace there. It is a
pyramidal stone structure like the many Colonial Ear furnaces in the Hudson
Highlands of New York. We then enter the
KI Jo-Mary Multiple Use Management Forest, paying a fee at the checkpoint
across from the furnace. We drive past
Silver Lake, which is beautiful and which provides a great view of the low
mountains to the north. We park at the
gorge called Gulf Hagas and hike to Screw Auger
Falls, a distance of a mile or so. The
hike takes a bit longer than we expect, though, for we have to ford the West
Branch of the Pleasant River. It is only
a foot or so deep, but we wade slowly on account of our bare feet. Several dogs, owned by other hikers, are
frolicking in the river and cross it much faster than us. We then follow the
Appalachian Trail (AT, blazed in white) northward and connect with a trail
(blazed in blue) that descends down into the gorge. We pass numerous beautiful waterfalls,
cascades and pools. One relatively low
waterfall pours into an especially deep pool; I think that it is Screw
Auger. The rock is a vertically-foliated
slate. On the way back, we stop to admire the tall White Pine trees of the
Hermitage grove. I also make a short
detour to view a wetland adjacent to the AT.
We have dinner at the Silver Lake
Field Campsite, setting up the Coleman Stove on a picnic table and cooking pork
and couscous. The afternoon is sunny
though a bit cool. The campsite is in a
small field south of the lake, but the lake is not really accessible from it,
owing to the dense woods along that part of its shore.
August 12, 2013. The next few days prove rather
frustrating. We are expecting a shipment
of seismometers to be delivered to Kelly Storage in Orono
and have to be available to receive it.
Unfortunately, we cannot find out when it will be delivered. I drive over to Kelly Storage in the morning
and wait until lunch, while Philip and Helen shop for some hard-to-find
supplies. At lunch, I take a short walk in
Webster Park, on the bank of the Penobscot River in Orono. It and the Route 2 Highway bridge
offer nice view of this major river. After
lunch, I return to Kelley Storage, only to receive a call saying that the
delivery will definitely not be either today or tomorrow. I then took a more extended walk in the
Bangor City Forest, an experimental forest with many pedestrian walkways and less-developed
trails. I pass several stands of White
Pine, each planted according to a specific schedule. In one of the damper areas, I spot a Leopard
frog and, later, a garter snake. After
completing a loop through the forest, I walk the Bog Boardwalk through the Orono Bog, which adjoins the forest. It is a large wetland, full of sphagnum moss
and pitcher plants, but with stands of short evergreen trees, too. I watch a wasp exploring a pitcher
plant. It does not get trapped by this
carnivorous plant, but rather flies away after a few minutes.
I meet up with Helen and Philip at
the Travelodge. We eat dinner at the
Oriental Jade restaurant in Bangor.
August 13, 2013. Since we are not expecting a delivery today,
we drive up north to install a seismometer vault at the Six Mile Checkpoint, in
the North Maine Woods west of Ashland.
We stop at an overlook along I95 near Millinocket Maine to view Salmon
Stream Lake and Mt Katahdin. At the
checkpoint, I spend a few minutes talking with the attendant, Rita, and with a
Forest Service Ranger named Amanda. We then assemble and install the vault in a
field near the checkpoint. I spot a few
rabbits.
We drive up to Portage and have
lunch at a park by the shore of Portage Maine.
We then reenter the North Woods and drive out to Moose Point Camp, where
we unload some supplies. Our vehicles
have limited carrying capacity and we have to stage supplies carefully. We then return to Bangor and have dinner at
Miguel’s, a Mexican Restaurant. I have
burritos.
August 14, 2013. Rain today. After a
quick continental breakfast at the Travellodge, I
head out to Kelly Storage to await the delivery. I sight a turkey while I am
sitting in the car in the facility’s driveway.
Meanwhile, Helen and Philip head over to a plumber in Orono to buy a pipe that we will use for the solar panel
mast at Togue Pond.
Around lunch time I get a call that the delivery will not happen today.
How frustrating! I return to the
Travelodge, pickup Helen and Philip and drive over to Camden, a town on the
sea. We creep thorough the traffic jam
that is a permanent feature of the downtown area of this tourist town. We begin
a load of laundry at the Clean Bee Laundromat on Route 1 south of town and take
a walk through town while the machine is running. The rain is tapering in off and clear sky is
showing to our south and heading our way.
After our clothes are done, we wade through the traffic jam again,
driving over to Camden Hills State Park, off Route 1 north of town.
We hike up the Mt Megunticook Trail to the Ocean Lookout, which offers a
spectacular view of Camden harbor and Penobscott
Bay. I have fond memories of Mt Megunticook (elevation 1380 ft),
for I climbed it first as a boy in the Nineteen Sixties as part of a family
vacation. It was my first substantial hike and maybe my mother’s most
substantial ever – indeed, she still occasionally refers to it. I climbed it again
about fifteen years ago with my own children, Hannah and Josh and their cousin
Nick Estes. The trail ascends steeply,
past numerous rock ledges composed of schist and quartzite and covered with prominent
glacial scratches, grooves and flutes.
The rock at the overlook is a quartzite, shot through with long-bladed andalusite crystals.
The glacial scratches point out towards the sea – indeed, the scarp on
the seaward part of the ledge appears to be glacially-plucked. The sky has now
cleared and the view of the bay and its islands is remarkable. Many sailboats are moored in the harbor. We also have a nice view of a smaller hill,
Mt. Battie, below us. We chat with an extended family
of a dozen or more people at the overlook.
I tell a young and tired boy about my first climb up the hill, when I
was his age. We do not hike up to the
summit, for it is wooded and without a view, but instead take the Mt. Battie trail back down.
It follows the edge of the cliff and passes by the Adams Lookout, which
provides another great view of the sea.
We have a spaghetti dinner in the
park’s picnic area, a broad field on the east side of Route 1 that also has a
nice view of the sea. Several sailing
yachts, lit up by the last rays of the evening sun, pass by as we are setting
up the Coleman stove. We head back to Bangor soon after dinner, stopping once
along Route 1 near Belfast to admire a view of Penobscott
Bay. We can see Mt Cadillac, a solitary
hill far to the east, across the bay.
August 15, 2013. I have a very frustrating day at Kelley
Storage, waiting for a delivery that doesn’t come. I spend all of the day there. I sight a few interesting birds, including an
American Goldfinch, as I sit in my car in the facility’s driveway.
About 3PM, a delivery truck arrives,
but it is not for us. Surprisingly,
however, it contains a load of seismic equipment, huge white plastic seismic
vaults for the Transportable Array that is being installed by IRIS. I chat with Larry, a retired USGS employee,
who arrives to meet it.
In the evening, Helen, Philip and I
have a picnic dinner at Bangor City Forest, cooking a stir fry on the Coleman
stove. Afterward, I walk the Bog
Boardwalk again. The evening is
spectacularly clear and the orange light and low sun angle is lighting up the
bog spectacularly. I sight a few red
squirrels as I walk back through the forest.
August 16, 2013. I set up again at Kelley Storage and await
the delivery. It arrives at around 12:20 PM. Thank goodness! We divide the gear between our cars and the
storage unit and then head out to Washington County. Helen and Philip set up our tents at the Log
Landing Campsite along Machias River Road near
Wesley, while I drive straight to Camp Vick and begin to offload and organize
our gear. This is a pretty site, on the
west bank of the Machias River. After Helena and Philip
arrive, we set up the seismometer, using a vault that Philip and I built on a
previous trip. The installation goes
well and we finish up at about 6PM.
We have dinner of kielbasa and
summer squash at Log Landing. The
evening is cool with a partly clear sky with the moon showing.
August 17, 2013. Rain fell during the night but the morning is
clear. We eat blueberry pancakes for breakfast, using berries that Philip has
picked. We then head over to Howard Cove
and install another station at a site on the sea cliff where Philip and I had
previously installed a vault. The scenery here is beautiful, with the brown rhyolite rock of the sea cliff, the blue waters of Machias Bay and the greens of the nearby woods and distant
islands. We finish up at about 2:20 PM.
We have lunch at Jasper Beach, a
beach made entirely of reddish brown rhyolite
cobbles. Helen and I try to relax on
this rather lumpy material, while Philip goes for a swim. He reports that the
water is fairly chilly. After lunch, I
go for a brief walk down towards the eastern end of the beach, to view a large
pond set behind the berm of cobbles.
We stopped at several interesting Washington
County scenic locations on the way back to the Log Landing Campsite, including
Patrick Pond (off Route 86), Meddybemps Lake (off of
Route 191) and a stream near the intersection of Route 191 and N Union Rd. We
had dinner at the Crawford Rest Stop along Route 9, east of Wesley. I took a
short hike, following an informal trail north along the bank of Harmon Brook.
August 18, 2013. The night was clear and rather hilly. We have a breakfast of cheese omelets, pack
up and head north (but first stopping in Bangor to pick up supplies). We have lunch at an
rest area on Interstate 95 near the town of Medway. We check in at the North
Maine Woods Six Mile Checkpoint, on Realty Road west of Ashland and then set up
camp at the Beaver Sprague Campsite, a few miles further west along the
road. We erect our tents in a small
grassy field adjacent to a small stream.
We then spend the afternoon setting up the solar panel A-frame at the
Six Mile Checkpoint site, with the intention of installing the seismometer the
next morning.
We have barbeque ribs for dinner.
August 19, 2013. After a pancake breakfast, we drive over to
Six Mile Checkpoint and complete the installation of the seismometer. We then visit the Department of Environmental
Conservation office in Ashland and meet with Vern Labbe,
who gives us helpful advice. I then
drive over to the Lowes in the town of Presque Isle and buy cement while Helen
and Philip climb Haystack Mountain, a small but steep hill east of Ashland. I
meet Helen and Philip in Portage and we drive together to Moose Point Camps,
where we drop off the supplies. We then
return to Beaver Sprague Campsite and cook a dinner of pork and macaroni and
cheese.
August 20, 2013. The morning at
Beaver Sprague Campsite is drizzly. We
have a breakfast of cheese omlets, pack up and head
over to Moose Point Camps. The seismometer there, a Taurus data logger with a Trillium
geophone, is working but we swap it out for a Reftek
data logger and Guralp geophone, in order to be able
to bring the Taurus back to the lab. We
need to figure out why it shut down during the winter of 2012. The Guralp is a
much taller geophone than the Trillium, so we add a third layer of cement
blocks to the vault to make it higher. We
also erect the solar panel A-frame, but put off installing the seismometer
until tomorrow, to give the concrete time to set.
We check into Cabins 1 and 2 at Moose
Point Camps, a wonderful old hunting camp on the shore of Fish River Lake. Mr. John Martin, it proprietor, fills us in
on around-camp improvements. The hens
have been working out well, and are providing fresh eggs. Broccoli is ripening in the vegetable garden. Moose, the Camp’s dog, is fishing in the
lake, standing knee-deep in the water beside the dock, watching for fish to
swim out from underneath it. We sight three garter snakes on the lawn. Philip
and I head out onto Fish River Lake, he swimming and me kayaking. A bald eagle flies overhead and several loons
are floating on the water. We go as far
as one of the small islands, the same islands that Vadim
Levin and I visited in a canoe last spring.
A rain shower begins to fall just as we reach the island, but quickly
passes by. The Camp serves a delicious
chicken casserole for dinner. The sunset
over Fish River Lake, which we watch through the picture windows of the lodge,
is very pretty. After dinner, we sit on
the porch of the cabin, reviewing the last several months of seismic data,
using a laptop computer. We have recorded
several earthquakes, including a local earthquake in Sidney Maine and a teleseism from the South Atlantic Ridge.
August 21, 2013. Mr. Martin serves us a breakfast of fresh
eggs. We talk about the proposed Bald Mountain mine, located about seven miles
to the south of the camp, which will exploit a massive sulfide deposit for
copper, zinc and gold. We decide to
visit the site, if time permits. We first finish the seismic installation, and
then take a drive towards the site of the mine.
We stop first at Carr Pond, a small but pretty body of water. We then drive several roads in the general
area of the mine, but without finding the exploratory boreholes that Mr. Martin
has told us about. We then drive over to Fish River Falls, a small but
beautiful waterfall on the lake’s outlet stream. It adjoins the Fish River Campsite, an
attractive site but not one at which I have yet stayed. We walk a trail that descends
past a series of falls and cascades. The
final waterfall, only a few feet high, flows in small rivulets among rock
ledges at a wide spot in the river that is very well lit by the sun. We have fun walking out onto the rocks and
admiring the view.
Back at Moose Point camps, I paddle
a kayak around the largest of the islands near the camp. The afternoon is quite breezy and the lake
surface is choppy, making the kayaking a bit challenging. I sight the bald eagle again, flying over the
lake. I hear loons on the way back.
The Camp serves steak for
dinner. We all sit around at the table,
chatting, until late in the evening. The sunset is again spectacular.
August 22, 2013. It’s a clear, bright morning at Moose Point
Camps. Mr. Martin serves us a breakfast of blueberry pancakes. We pack up and head off to the Deboulie Public Reserved Land, about an hour’s drive deeper
into the North Maine Woods. We stop
briefly at Pushineer and Fish Ponds and then park at the Togue Pond Hut,
where we have permission to install a seismometer by the facility’s shed. This installation is a little different than
the others that we have done, for the solar panels are to be on a mast rather
than an A-frame. We have brought a
sixteen-foot pipe for this purpose, and spend considerable time discussing how
we will attach it to the shed’s roof.
Philip then digs a deep hole with a post-hole shovel and we install the
mast, set in concrete in the bottom and supported at mid-height by a bracket
attached to the roof. We also install
the vault and assemble, but do not attach, the solar panel assembly.
We have dinner of chicken and
couscous. We spend the evening in the hut, reading by the dim lights of its gas
lamps. The hut is a log cabin affair,
with a nicely finished interior with propane-powered fridge and stove. However, it is rather too warm for me; I set
up my tent and sleep outside, beside it.
Rain falls during the night. I
put tarps over our still-setting concrete, so it will not be damaged by the
runoff.
August 23, 2013. The morning is a
bit dreary. We have a breakfast of pancakes and then finish the installation of
the seismometer. It talks all three of
us to raise the solar panel assembly up onto the mast. Philip and I, standing on the roof of the
shed, heave it up while Helen operates a safety rope. The rest of the installation is routine.
Togue Pond was our last seismometer site, so we are done. We drive back to the Fish River Checkpoint,
and then part ways, with Philip heading back to his home town of New Sweeden and Helen and I heading back to New York. We drove
more or less straight back to Orono to unload gear at
Kelly Storage, and then continued on towards southern Maine. Helen had never eaten Maine lobster, so I
took her to Estes Lobster House, on Casco Bay in the town of Harpswell. We had a
pleasant time eating on the outside deck of the restaurant, which has a great
view of Ash Cove and Bar Island. The afternoon
has brightened and seascape is startlingly beautiful. We had hoped to stay the night in Brunswick,
but cannot find an affordable hotel along the Maine coast (it being a Friday
night), so we wind up driving to the inland city of Lewiston, where the rates
are lower.
August 24, 2013. Helen and I stop at
the Starbucks at the Grey Service Plaza along the Maine Turnpike for breakfast. We then drive straight back to New York,
arriving at around 2PM.