[Journal entry for May 10, 2014; Nordkop Mountain, Harrriman State
Park]. I began my
hike from Kakiat County Park, in Montebello NY. It
adjoins Harriman State Park, and stretches from the Mahwah River up the flank
of Cobus Mountain, one of the may
peaks of the Ramapo Mountains, which mark the southern boundary of the Hudson
Highland. The river was flowing briskly,
but was nowhere near as high as I’ve seen it when in flood. I poked along its banks for a few minutes,
past luscious Skunk Cabbage and just-sprouting ferns.
I then crosses the footbridge and climbed the
Mountain Trail (blazed in orange), up the flank of Cobus
Mountain. Abundant Dogwood Trees were in
bloom. About halfway up, the trail passes a pretty overlook, but I did not stop
there today, but rather climbed to the ridge, past a flat boulder I call the
Stone Table. The trail follows the
ridgeline, with a southward view that is exciting on a clear day but rather
subdued in today’s overcast and haze.
The sparse vegetation that grows on these rocky ledges, Oak, Blueberry
and Sweet Fern, were all leafing out. Once past the power line right-of-way, I
joined the Kakiat Trail (blazed in white). It follows the base of a prominent scarp, one
on the many that the glaciers of the Ice Age sculpted in the Hudson
Highlands. The hill at the top of the
scarp is bare in places and may offer viewpoint; I must explore it someday.
I joined the Sufferen-Bear
Mountain (SBM, blazed in yellow), and took to it south towards Nordkpop Mountain.
At 23.5 miles, the SBM is the longest trail in the park, and the rough
topography makes it very tough. Back in
2002, my friend Olaf M. Svenningsen and I tried to
walk its entire length in a day. Though were both in great cardiovascular
shape, our legs gave out in only 15 miles – too many
ups and downs! My plan for today was
much more modest. The trail first
crosses a boulder field. Among the many
boulders are two giants, Grandpa and Grandma Rock. Though stony, this part of the trail is very
pleasant, passing through open woods and fields and crossing several mossy
streams. I sighted a number of
butterflies, some with yellow-rimmed black wings, others
mostly yellow. The sky began to darken
and a bit of light rain began to fall. I
could hear thunder to the southwest, but the main part of the storm missed me.
I came eventually to the steep ravine called the
Valley of Dry Bones. I saw no bones
today; nor was the valley dry. The
little stream at its bottom was flowing merrily over mossy rocks. A few frogs jump from its banks into pools as
I approached. I then huffed up the steep
west side of the ravine and continued along the SBM. I crossed a power line right-of-way. Though the pylons are ugly, the clearing
offered a good view of the hills to my north, including Ramapo Torne. Unfortunately, the sky was still pretty
murky, though a line of clear sky in the northwest raised my hopes for some
sun.
I knew that I was closing in on my destination when
I reached the Kitchen Stairs, a steep part of the trail that descends down a
gulley in a cliff, fifty feet of more high.
The clouds now had parted, and the rocks were brightly lit by the sun. Though
not the tallest of the glacially-plucked cliffs of Harriman Park, it is very
dramatic. Furthermore, it is obscured by
fewer trees than some of the other scarps. Its face, in places, is vertical and
bare, though with occasional clinging fern. Huge angular blocks are scatter
around its base. I spotted a Scarlet
Tanager sitting in a tree at its base.
This medium-sized bird, with red body and black wings, is even more
gorgeous than a Cardinal.
By this time, I was hoping that I was approaching
the summit of Norkop Mountain. However, the trail dipped once again into
another valley bordered by another cliff, though while shorter than the one by
the Kitchen Stairs was no less steep.
This summit area of Nordkop Mountain is just
beyond. I had no exact sense of just
when I was at the summit of this rounded and wooded hill; any of several knobs
that I passed might have that honor.
After starting to descend, the trail crosses several wide granite ledges
- excellent overlooks with views towards the southwest. The view is marred to some degree by NYS
Thruway - I287 interchange, which clutters up the nearby lowlands, but it is
still impressive. The trail down to
Route 17 is steep and rocky. The final section is down a gulley that opens up
onto the highway.
The hike from Kakiat Park
to Suffern took me four hours. I stopped
at a convenience store for a soda and then walked back along Route 202, a route
that though less steep and more direct, still took me an hour or so. I crossed the Mahwah River once again as I
approached Kakiat Park, noting a small Gauging
Station on the north side of the bridge.
About five hours, overall.