[Journal entry for November 24, 2017; Fort Adams Bay
Walk, Newport Rhode Island] Dallas and I parked in main lot of Fort Adams State
Park, just north the toll house on Fort Adams Drive. No fee was being charged on this
late-November Friday. The day was cold, windy and clear. We hiked the Bay Loop, which follows the
shore of the peninsula on which the fort stands.
We immediately came upon a spring that flows from
the hillside below a soccer field west of the road. It bubbles from the ground and flows through
a stone-lined ditch before disappearing into a drain. A small windowless brick building sits across
the road. Perhaps it is a pump house for the municipal water supply.
The path takes us north along the shore, past a marina.
Many anchor buoys are still floating in the water of Brenton
Cove, but most sailboats have been moved to storage for the winter. A row of dinghies are piles up on a floating
dock. We can see the castle-like mansion of the New York Yacht Club, directly across
the cove. A large square-rigged ship, the Oliver Hazard Perry, is docked on a
pier at the north end of the marina. The
Park’s Visitors Center is nearby; Dallas and I stop in and buy a cup of coffee.
The path took us between Fort Adams and the stone
sea wall. The high walls of this Civil War era fort are built of large beige
granite blocks, which according to a sign, were hauled in from Maine. Most of the windows (gunports,
I guess) have been bricked over. A few
years ago, when Dallas and I visited Fort Jefferson, a fort of similar design in
the Dry Tortugas Florida, we learned that rusting iron had to be removed from all
the openings, lest its expansion crack the walls. The seawall was composed of red sandstone that
I suppose came from the Mesozoic-age Connecticut Basin. I poked around the blocks, looking for
dinosaur footprints and other fossils, but found none.
The point has a spectacular view of the Claibourne Pell suspension bridge, which ties Newport to
adjacent Jamestown Island. A cargo ship,
the BBC Luanda, was anchored in the bay, between us and the bridge. We rounded the point and headed south. The
path, originally just a little above sea level, has risen substantially, and is
now separated from the water by a low cliff of black slate. Fort Wetherin, on Jamestown Island, is directly across the bay
from us, but while we can make out some buildings above the rocky cliffs on
that island, we cannot identify the fort.
The path then cuts across the base of the
peninsula. We passed a small concrete
observation post. While old and vine-encrusted , it looks to be younger than the fort. Perhaps it’s
of World War Two vintage. The path takes
us by a wide lawn hosting Eisenhower House, a beautiful late Nineteenth Century
mansion that was once the summer White House of that American President.
A few minutes later we were back at the car. We drove over to the spring and spent a few
minutes measuring it flow rate and temperature.
About one and a half hours.