[Journal Entry for June 8, 2019; Lonesome Lake,
Franconia Notch State Park, Franconia New Hampshire]. Dallas and I drove north to Franconia Notch
from Plymouth New Hampshire, on the morning of Gigi Estes’ 80th
Birthday Party, arriving at about 10:30 AM.
The day was spectacularly clear, the Notch was gorgeous and the Park was
very crowded. We drove the Franconia
Notch Parkway (I93) through the Notch, passing the steep headwall on its
western side that was carved by glaciers during the Ice Age. We made a U-turn at Cannon Mountain and drove
back to Lafayette Campground, which is only accessible from the southbound
lanes. Unfortunately, the hikers’ lot
was full. We continued s mile or so
south to the Basin parking lot and were lucky to grab one of the few remaining
spots.
We hiked the Franconia Notch Recreation Path back
north to Lafayette Campground, a distance of about 1.3 miles. It is a pleasant paved path that runs through
woods, following the Pemigewasset River. The river is about fifty feet wide and a
foot or two deep but was running sufficiently strongly
that fording it would have been challenging. We stopped to examine a small
waterfall near the parking lot before setting off. The rock of the falls is a syenite. A small
mafic dike, now mostly eroded away into a slot, cuts across it. The woods are
lush. The hardwood threes still have the
lime-green color of spring. Fern and
other ground cover are very luxurious. We passed many beautiful Viburnum bushes,
with their large clusters of white flowers, growing along the path. The path is
fairly level and crosses three small streams by sturdy pedestrian bridges.
Once we arrived at Lafayette Campground, we crossed
the Pemigewasset River by another footbridge and
connected with the Lonesome Lake Trail.
After talking us through the campground, it ascends steeply up the
western side of the valley, by two long switchbacks. Dallas and I hiked this trail in winter using
snowshoes and thought it fairly easy. It
was considerably harder today, for very many rocks on its surface were now exposed. We passed many wildflowers, including more Viburnum,
Jack-in-the-Pulpit, False Solomon Seal, Red Trillium and Painted Trillium. The Red Trillium was a bit gone-by, but the Painted
Trillium was in full bloom and very beautiful.
It’s a solitary flower, with three pink petals with darker centers and
lighter edges, at the top of a foot-tall stalk above three large leaves. The hillside at the top of the hill was full
of it.
After 1.3 miles, the trail flattened out and
approached the northeastern shore of Lonesome Lake, a small oval pond about a
quarter-mile in its largest dimension.
We stood for a while at the shore, gazing across the pond to the
mountains to the west, which include Cannon to the north and Kinsman to the
southwest. We could see a crowd of
people sunbathing on the dock of AMC Lonesome Lake Hut. This hut is on a low rise, just above the
southwest shore of the lake. The trail
bifurcates as it reaches the lakeshore, encircling the lake. Dallas took the left-hand branch and I the
right. My path took me over a long
puncheon through the marshy area on the northwestern side of the lake, while Dallas’
took her through dryer – but still pretty muddy – conifer woods along the
eastern shore.
The wetlands are strikingly beautiful. The low marsh grass provides open view of
the round hump of Cannon Mountain and the more archetypically-peaked summit of
Lafayette. I took one short detour to visit a beaver pond, the dam of which was
a few yards west of the puncheon. The
dam was pretty grown over; I saw no signs of recent beaver activity. In addition to the grasses, the marsh has
bushes and copses of conifer trees. Some
of the bushes were in bloom, with small white flowers.
I reached the dock after a few minutes. It was crowded with people. A dog was swimming in the lake, retrieving a
top thrown by its owner. I continued
along the trail as far as the dam at the south end of the lake. The pedestrian bridge over the outflow, Cascade
Brook, is a fairly elaborate affair, but the dam itself looks to be made of
wooden beams backfilled with stones, and is mostly under water. My guess is that the present-day lake was
created by raising the level of a natural wetland or pond by a yard or
two. I then turned about and climbed up
the steps to AMC Lonesome Lake Hut. Dallas was already sitting at one of the
tables within. I purchased a cup of
ginger tea and a couple of pastries made by the hut’s staff, and joined her for
lunch. The hut’s common room is roughly
circular in floor plan, with windows that look out over the lake. We chatted with several of the hikers,
including an instructor from Massachusetts Bay Community College, sharing
recent outdoor adventures with each other.
After giving my complements to the chef over the
pastries, Dallas and I headed back.
Dallas joined me on the puncheon branch of the trail. We spotted a few mallard ducks swimming in
the Lake, and examined a gelatinous mass of eggs – frogs’ eggs, I guess – that
had been laid in a shallow pool. After a
last look from the lakeshore, we descended the Lonesome Lake Trail back down to
Lafayette Campground, and then Franconia Notch Recreation Path back to our car
at the Basin, reaching it about 3:15 PM. We then hustled back south to Gigi’s
Birthday Party.
Overall, the trip took was about 5.8 miles long and
took 4:45.