[Journal entry for October 16-17, 2011; Overnight
hike to the Dutch Doctor and Claudius Smith Den, Harriman State Park]. Being a
member, I was able to park at the American Canoe Association camp on Lake
Sebago. The afternoon was rather cloudy
and a bit cool, in the fifties Fahrenheit.
I donned my backpack and headed west along the Tuxedo-Mount Ivy (TMI)
trail. It ascends the southern flank of
the little wooded hill lat overlooks the lake called the Dutch Doctor. I
stopped at the lean-to on the west side of the hill, for I have planned to stay
the night there. It is a three-sided
structure, with stone walls and a wooden roof and is built against a low cliff,
so that its roof is about even with the top of the cliff. Unlike many of the other shelters in the
park, this one does not command much of a view.
However, it has a good supply of water, as several little streams flow
nearby, and water tends to be scarce at the shelters on ridge lines. I then pushed west along TMI towards Claudius
Smith Den. The fall foliage is more advanced than at my home twenty miles to
the south, with many golden beech trees and some brilliant orange maples, the
latter mostly in wetlands. I stopped to
view the wetland near the shelter. It is
mostly full of phragmites,
now beige with white sunlit tassels and is surrounded by colorful trees. I crossed a couple small streams and several
open glades carpeted with blueberry, now deep red. I soon reached the top of the cliff that
hosts Claudius Smith Den. Remarkably,
the sky cleared almost completely, and I was treated to a wonderful view of the
hills to the south and west. From this
vantage, one sees very little evidence of civilization, even though the view is
clear for several miles. I then walked
down to the base of the cliff. It is a
south facing scarp, one of the taller of the many in the park, perhaps a
hundred feet high. It was formed by
glacial plucking during the Ice Age. Its base is littered with enormous blocks
of stone, angular in shape, some ten feet high.
The Den is a small cave created by an overhang in the cliff. It is said to have been the hideout of a
notorious criminal during the Revolutionary War era. I sat in the cave for a few minutes, admiring
the fall foliage that I could see outside of it. I then hiked back up to the top of the cliff
and spent a few minutes exploring a series of trails, most of them dead ends,
that headed north among very picturesque fields of blueberries and birch
trees. I came upon the White Cross (WC)
trail and took it north for a mile or so.
The sun was shining brightly in the south, so all the northward vistas
we lit up wonderfully and the air was crisp and energizing. I made several side
trips to visit picturesque spots: blueberry fields, streams, a marvelously
scarlet tree, and wetlands. WC gradually drops in elevation, until it reaches
the flank of a large phragmites
marsh called Black Ash Swamp. The edges
of the swamp were particularly beautiful, on account of the trees being
species, such as maple, that have bright orange and red fall leaves. I then connected with the White Bar (WB)
trail and headed south again. The trail
crosses Blauvelt Mountain. I took a
final detour up to what might be its summit, a tall rocky know partially
covered with blueberries. The sun was
now low on the horizon and behind some clouds, but a beautiful fan of sunbeams
was peeking out. The blueberry bushes
were a deep red in the dim light. I then
hurried back to the Dutch Doctor Shelter, completing the loop, and reaching it
while there was still a little light. I
opted to stay near the shelter in a tent, as I wanted to try out a new winter
tent, a Marmot Alpinist, that I had recently
purchased. After setting it up, I cooked
dinner, couscous with steak and mushroom, washed down with instant coffee. I sat for a while in the shelter, listening
to the sounds of evening. I may have heard some owls, but if so, they were far
away and their calls were indistinct.
Insects chirped nearby, with cricket-like calls and counter-calls. After a while, I went to bed in the
tent. A little rain fell during the
night and the morning was damp and cloudy.
I ate a breakfast of bread and coffee, again sitting in the shelter. But then, remarkably, the sky cleared
completely. I packed up, stowed my pack
in the shelter, and did a short hike, visiting two nearby spots, an open
blueberry glade and a wetland south of it.
I had fun poking about a little stream that flowed through the
wetland. I watched the sunlight creep
down the trees as the sun rose higher in the sky. I then retrieved my pack and hiked back to
the ACA camp. I spent a few minutes
standing on the dock, admiring the view of Lake Sebago and the hills
surrounding it. I also stopped to view
the Ramapo River on my drive back through Sloatsburg. The trees along its bank are in their fall
foliage, too. About 20 hours, of which
about five were hiking.