[Bill
Menke’s Journal for
Fieldtrip 13G of the QMIII Project, North Maine Woods,
September 11-16, 2013] During this trip, I (Bill Menke) searched for seismometer sites in the North
Maine Woods north of the town of Allagash in Aroostook
County, Maine.
September
11, 2013. The weather report for
tomorrow is awful, with heavy rain predicted in Maine. I decide to drive up a day early and wait out
the worst at Seahaven Cottage in Harpswell
Maine. In contrast to the bad weather
predicted for tomorrow, today’s weather is perfect, the sky wonderfully clear.
I
have often passed a sign along I495 for Walden Pond, the site of the cabin
where Henry David Thoreau lived in 1845 and which inspired his famous book Walden, or, Life in the Woods. Today, with time to spare and in the early
afternoon, I take the exit and follow Route 2 to the town of Concord
Massachusetts; the detour taking about fifteen minutes. Walden Pond State Reservation is rather
crowded today, which surprises me as it is both a Wednesday and well after
Labor Day, the nominal end of summer. I
barely get a parking spot; indeed the park closes to new arrivals shortly after
I arrive. I walk first to the swim
beach, at the eastern end of the pond, and then take a hiking trail around the
circumference. The shores of the lake
are wooded, mainly with conifers, but with some deciduous species, too. Most
trees are still in summer greens, but a few maples are beginning to turn bright
red and many of the bushes along the lake shore have changed to red, too,
though a duller shade. The lake shore has more relief than I imagined it would,
making the bank rather steep in most places.
Occasion stone staircases have been built to facilitate access. Many
people are swimming, not only at the beach but elsewhere along the lake shore,
and a few people are about in kayaks and canoes. I
cross a small causeway between the lake proper and a smaller marshy area. In a while I come to a stand of large of
conifer trees in which stands a cairn and a small rectangular plot of land,
surrounded by a fence with stone posts.
A sign informs me that this is the site of Thoreau’s cabin. I pause for a moment, reading a paragraph
from Walden emblazed on a sign, and then continue my walk. It takes me about
forty minutes to complete the circuit.
In
the late afternoon, I take a break from driving and stop in the town of York,
on the coast of southern Maine. I stop
first at a tidal river along Route 1, and admire the view of the marsh grasses
and the goldenrod, now blooming bright yellow.
I then drive to the coast and to Hartley Mason Reservation, a park on
the sea cliff just north of York Harbor.
I walk through the park and then along a little beach adjacent to
it. Many people are sunbathing but only
a very few are swimming. I suppose the
water to be rather chilly. I walk out onto the rocks for a while and head back
to the car. I make one final stop, at Soheir Park, at the end of Cape Neddick,
a peninsula just north of the large and very commercial York Beach. The park provides a splendid view of Nubbles Light, located on a rocky island just offshore,
composed mainly of a hornblende gabbro. The lighthouse and associated outbuildings
are dramatically lit up by the setting sun and are very picturesque,
indeed! I continue my drive to Harpswell after a few minutes of poking about on the rocks,
arriving at about 7PM.
September
12, 2013. The weather in Harpswell is awful today, with heavy rain and strong and
frequent bolts of lightning. The thunder
makes Seahaven cottage shake! Reports for elsewhere in Maine are just a
bad. I decide to stay in the cottage
until the morrow.
September
13, 2013. The weather is still wet, though
less stormy than yesterday, and is predicted to improve during the course of
the day. I drive up north, stopping
briefly at Kelly Storage in Orono Maine to pick up
supplies that I have left there on the previous trip. I stop at Joe’s Country Store in the town of
St. Francis Maine for a snack, and then purchase a North Maine Woods pass at
the Little Black Checkpoint in Allagash Maine. I enter the north woods though the automated
Dickey Checkpoint, a few miles further down the road. I then take the unpaved Camp 106 Road
northward to its terminous and Estcourt
Road a few miles east to Deadeye Bridge Campsite #2, on the Little Black
River. I arrive at 6PM, the drive up
from Harpswell having taken about nine hours. Fall has arrived here: most of the maples are
red and many of the beeches are starting to turn
yellow.
The
evening is overcast but the light rain that fell through most of the day has
ended. I set up camp and cook a dinner
of pork ribs and couscous on the Coleman stove.
I tour the immediate vicinity campsite, walking over to the bridge so
that I can view the Little Black River.
But the light is fading and I retire to my tent soon thereafter.
September
14, 2013. The weather took a turn for
the worst during the night; intermittent moderate to heavy rain in now
falling. I cook an egg sandwich during a
lull, and then spend the day driving a 10 mile stretch of Estcourt
road and many intersecting side roads, looking for prospective seismometer
sites. I visit old gravel quarries,
clear-cuts and a work camp with a green garage.
I find several excellent prospective sites. I have lunch at Little Black
River Campsite #1. Its picnic table is
below a little wooden pavilion. I eat my lunch in relative dryness even though
rain continues to fall. The rain ends at
about 3PM, and I take a walk around the three campsites in the area. Two have views of the river that I’m sure
would be beautiful on a brighter day.
The view from the bridge is especially interesting; a long arcuate beaver dam spans the river there. I spend some time
examining the many different kinds of mosses and lichens that cover the ground.
I
returned to my campsite and ate another dinner of pork ribs and couscous.
September
15, 2013. The morning is spectacularly
clear. I arise at 7AM, have a hurried
breakfast of an egg sandwich and coffee, pack up my tent, and spend a couple of
hours revisiting all of yesterday’s locations, so that I can photograph them in
better light. The river is indeed
spectacularly beautiful in the morning sun, especially since some clouds of
mist still linger on its surface.
I
drive Camp 106 Road back to the town of Allagash,
stopping at a clear-cut at about the half way point to view Rocky Mountain, a
small but prominent hill east of the road.
I also stop at a wetland to admire the maple trees along its borders,
now fall red.
I
stop several times during by drive back to Harpswell.
I view the Allagash River near the Route 161 bridge,
whose bank is full of bright yellow flowers – Black Eyes Susans,
I think; the St Johns River from a rest area near the town of St Francis; Eagle Lake from a park off of Old Maine St,
near the Old Mill Marina in town of Eagle Lake; the north end of Portage Lake
and the red vegetation long its shore, from a high point on Route 11; several
wetlands along Route 11 south of Ashland, and Mt Chase, from Shin Pond Village.
I
stopped at the store at Shin Pond Village to buy a few supplies, and exchanged
greeting with Terry Hill, its proprietor. I then drove Grand Lake Road out to
the Forest Service Station – one of the QMII seismometer sites. The exterior of the station was in good
condition, but as we are scheduled to service it fully next month, I did not
attempt to communicate with it. I also
had a pleasant conversation with the ranger, Owen, and his colleague
Joanne. They gave me some advice on how
to access Sugarloaf Mountain, a nearby peak that they
said offered an excellent view of the area.
I plan to visit it on my next trip.
I
decided to try to drive through Baxter State Park, and so continued along Grand
Lake Road, past Grand Lake Matagamon, to the North
Entrance. Unfortunately, the ranger there told me that the road had washed out
during the rain and was under repair; a transit of the park was not
possible. So I turned around and drove
Route 11 straight back south, except for a few brief stops for gas and dinner. I arrived at Seahaven
Cottage in the town of Harpswell at about 8PM.
September
15, 2013. I arose early and drove
straight back to New York, arriving in Tappan NY in the mid-afternoon.