[Journal entry for April 14, 2013; Huyler Landing Trail, Palisades Interstate Park, Alpine
NJ]. Dallas and I walk a loop of the Hudson
Palisades Cliffs, south from Alpine Boat Basin.
The afternoon is splendid and springy, with sun and temperatures in the
high fifties, Fahrenheit. The southern
end of the Boat Basin is still a bit torn up in post-Hurricane Sandy repairs; a
large settling pond has been dug in the riverbank, making the connection with
the Shore Trail (blazed in white) a little muddy. Except for a small slump near the Basin, the
trail itself is in good shape. Myrtle, forsythia and daffodils are blooming,
the fiddleheads of ferns are unrolling, many bushes are partly leafed out and
the trees are starting to show a faint green of budding. We pass several boulder fields with huge
blocks that must have tumbled off the cliffs above. We take a side path where we must crawl
between two rocks that make a small tunnel.
We
pass a bronze plaque in memorial to John Jordan, a former head of the Palisades
Interstate Park. Afterward, I find an
old newspaper account of his tragic death on February 5, 1915: “Plunging backward as he lost his foothold in
ascending an ice covered path near the top of the Palisades here, [and] was
killed instantly when he fell a hundred feet.”
I know from my own experience that these cliff-side paths are
treacherous in icy winter conditions; crampons are a must!
The
Shore Trail descends to river level. We pass quite a few hefty beams and planks
that I suppose were torn off of docks during the storm and deposited along the
trail. We connect with Huyler’s Landing Road (blazed in red) at a small point of
land that I suppose was once the dock.
It is a one lane woods road that switches back as forth as it ascends
the cliff. We have to search a bit to
find the trail as we cross Henry Husdon Drive; its upward
continuation is a hundred yards to the south of where we come out onto the road. The climb up is relatively easy, for the
trail is smooth and of an even grade, although we once have to crawl beneath a
very large Sandy-felled tree. We join the Long Path (blazed in blue) at the top
of the cliff, and take it back north.
We
come to a wonderful overlook, atop a paved and fenced-in column jutting out
from the cliff edge. It is smaller– but more dramatic– than the one at State
Line Lookout. We stand for a few minutes
looking out over the Hudson River towards the city of Yonkers, on its eastern
shore. Several smaller spires of rock jut
up next to us. From this vantage, we can
see that many of the trees along the cliff edge are in the initial processes of
leafing out. The woods have a faint
greenish hue.
We
walk through Alpine Lookout, a drive-up overlook on the Palisades Interstate
Park, and then continue north on the Long Path.
I can see the Bronx-Whitestone Bridge, far off to the east. We soon come
to the ruins of Cliffdale Manor, built in 1911. Only the lower part of this once large and
beautiful mansion remains – but it is substantial, indeed. We pass beneath a tall stone archway into
what once must have been the carriage entrance and walk through to the other
side. We then wander around the structure,
finding a row of marble columns lying horizontally on the ground. Myrtle and forsythia is blooming on the
ground around the ruins and a few ancient ornamental trees and bushes still
survive in the surrounding woods. Yucca
is growing on the cliff-edge.
We
continue southward on the Long Path and cross beneath Henry Hudson Drive via a
tunnel. I notice that the keystone of
the archway is dated 1936. We then
connected with the Old Alpine Trail (blazed in orange) and take it back down to
the Boat Basin. The sun is getting low
in the sky, lighting up the piers of the Boat Basin and the building of Yonkers
very vividly.
About
three hours.