[Journal
entry for May 1, 2013; Owl Swamp, Harriman State Park, NY] In the late afternoon,
I hike around Owl Swamp, in Harriman State Park. I am following up on an observation of open
water in the swamp that Dallas and I made a few weeks ago when we observed it
from the ridge atop Black Mountain. On
previous trips we had not noticed any open water, so we suspect that beavers
have constructed an impoundment there.
It’s
fine and clear spring weather, with temperatures in the mid sixties,
Fahrenheit. I park at the south end of the lot at the Anthony Wayne Recreation
Area and take the Ski Trail south. Its trailhead is marked by an informational
sign. This woods road parallels Beechy Bottom Brook.
I crossed the brook and several of its tributaries, via wooden
footbridges.
I
connected with the Appalachian Trail (AT, blazed in white) and take it
westward, crossing Beechy Bottom Brook again via
another wooden footbridge. I then
ascended up a terrace and cross the Palisades Interstate Parkway. I pass a Pussy Willow bush as I re-enter the
woods. I then began to shallow ascent through generally rising country and
connect with the 1779 Trail (blazed in blue), taking it south.
The
trail follows the crest of a low ridge though open and pretty woods that is
partly leafed out. The underbrush, which
includes high and low bush Blueberry is more leafed out
than the trees, but even the trees are visibly a lemon-green. I pass a very large sandstone glacial erratic
boulder near the intersection of the 1779 Trail with Owl Lake Road. This road follows the western edge of Owl
Swamp (which by implication was once a lake).
The
swamp is actually much bigger than I had realized when Dallas and I viewed it
from atop Black Mountain. Most of it is a
Phragmites grass meadow, but a few sections have more
varied vegetation and two are open water.
I bushwhack along its edge and find several places where I can struggle
past high bush Blueberry bushes and view open, marshy meadows of cattails,
sphagnum moss and grass hummocks. I
follow the western edge of the marsh southward,
negotiating several pretty tributary streams, and eventually rejoin Owl Lake
Road.
The
road leads to the dam at the south end of the swamp and to a smallish patch of
open water just north of the dam. The
dam itself has been intentionally reduced in height, with cement-covered
boulders originally part of its structure heaped up on its downhill side. Perhaps this is why it now impounds a swamp
and no longer a lake. Beavers have
dammed the sluiceway and built a lodge on the dam, but their work appears old
and unmaintained.
I
spot a snapping turtle, with a shell about a foot long, on the grass near the
sluiceway and spend several minutes watching it. It sees me, makes a half-hearted attempt to
withdraw its limbs into its fat body, looks unhappy but does not move. I then walk out onto the dam where I spot
another snapping turtle, at least twice as large as the first, floating
peacefully in the water. It sees me but
seems unconcerned. I inadvertently
disturb a large snake – a northern water snake, perhaps, though I do not get a
good look. It dashes into the water and
swims off.
The
water is teeming with salamanders, tadpoles and fish. Amphibian egg masses are clinging to dead,
submerged branches. They seem to be of
two types, one a milky green color and the other clearer but with dark flecks
that I suppose must be the fetuses.
I
then bushwhack along the eastern edge of the swamp, on the flank of Big Bog
Mountain. The going is pretty tough in
places, for the vegetation is pretty dense.
I eventually come to a point of land where I can view the second section
of open water. This is the open water
that Dallas and I saw from the ridge of Black
Mountain, judging from my unobstructed view of the ridge from this
vantage. As I suspected, the water is
impounded by long, arcuate beaver dam on the south
side of the pond. A lodge has been built
on the west side of the pond. A large
tree has been felled recently, its exposed wood sill yellow, confirming that
the beavers are still in residence. Dallas and my inferences of beaver activity
are correct, but the beaver pond is actually much smaller than we
imagined. It just happens to be well-positioned
to be seen from Black Mountain, whereas the much larger Phragmites
meadow is mostly obscured by trees.
I
finish bushwhacking around the swamp, rejoined Owl Lake Road and then taking
that woods road eastward to where it terminates at a gate along the Palisades
Interstate Parkway. I cross the Parkway
but find the island between the northbound and southbound lanes difficult,
owing to a patch of Poison Ivy that I cannot completely avoid. I then bushwhack
west across the valley of the Beechy Bottom Brook,
until I rejoined the Ski Trail, which I take back to my car.
About
two and a half hours.