[Journal entry for December 20, 2014; Floating Island Pond, Desolation
Wilderness, near South Lake Tahoe, California].
I drove up to the Sierras last night and checked into the Motel 6 in
South Lake Tahoe, arriving just before midnight. In the morning, after a quick breakfast at
the Seven-Eleven, I drove west on Route 89 to the SnoPark
that’s just west of the bridge across Taylor Creek. The SnoPark is an
elaborate paved lot, but didn’t have a parking permit, not did I want to spend
the time driving back to town to procure one, so I parked at an unpaved lot on
nearby Cathedral Road, hoping that I wouldn’t be ticketed (which I
wasn’t). I set off down a woods road
that headed southwest, through sparse evergreen trees, towards the northern
shore of Fallen Leaf Lake. The weather
was pretty marginal, with light intermittent rain, but with some signs of a
clearing sky. I was hoping to at least get
into snow at the higher elevations (which proved to be the case). A thin layer
of wet snow was on the ground.
I took a
short detour to visit the dam on Taylor Creek, the outlet stream
of Fallen Leaf Lake. The lake is oval in
shape, set in a glacial valley well above the level of Lake Tahoe. It is similar in shape and situation to
nearby Cascade Lake, to the west; both are most contained by the glacial
moraines at their southern ends. The dam
on Taylor Creek is concrete, with a walkway over the top. I stood on it, gazing out over the lake,
which was grey and misty. I then continued
west, first crossing Cathedral Road again and then bushwhacking uphill to joint
Mt Tallac Rd A.
This road terminated in a small parking lot by a Forest Service
kiosk. I obtained a (free) wilderness
permit there. I then took the Mt Tallac Trail (unblazed), through
open evergreen woods, up the flank of Mt Tallac. The snow slowly deepened and I soon donned my
snowshoes.
The walk up
the Mt Tallac Trail is very pleasant, with many great
views of Fallen Leaf Lake and Lake Tahoe.
The scenery today was subdued, owing to the clouds and light snow, but
as the morning progresses, the sky brightened a bit and a thin sun began to
shine through the clouds. I reached a
level spot on the shoulder of Mt Tallac, way below
the peak, where the trees were especially tall.
I came to tiny Floating Island Pond, which is perhaps only a hundred
yards long, in a glade in these woods.
It was covered with ice, and appeared to have no island, floating or
otherwise. After poking around the shore
for a few minutes, I continued on the trail, which followed the inlet stream
uphill, passing some small marshes.
The land
gradually opened up to some largish snow fields, which gave good views of some
of the rocky spurs on the flanks of the mountain (though not of its peak). The snow was three or four feet deep on them,
so picking out the trail was difficult and the progress was slow. I crossed Cathedral Creek by stepping from
stone-to-stone. It’s a narrow but lively
creek that descends down a steep valley, to empty into Fallen Leaf Lake, far
below.
The
afternoon was getting on, so I decided to take a trail down to the shore of Fallen Leaf Lake, rather than to continue uphill on
the Mt Tallac Trail.
However, I could not find the intersection, on account of the deep
snow. I opted to make a long southerly
traverse of the hillside, doing my best to maintain a contour, in expectation
of intersecting the trail as it descended from above. This was perhaps unwise, for bushes made the
snowshoeing difficult and the steepness of the hill made the contour hard to
hold. I could have gotten myself into
serious trouble if I had missed the trail, for the vegetation further down
slope was dense enough to be impassible.
Fortunately, I found the trail in about a half hour of plodding, and
once on it, the hike down to lake level was very easy. I took off my snowshoes
about half way down. I decided to continue south and hike a loop around the
country roads that circle the inhabited southern and eastern shores of the
lake. The last little section before
reaching Fallen Leaf Road is a bit difficult, for it crosses a stream and some
jagged rock ledges.
The walk
around the lake, past numerous summer houses and several camps, was very
pleasant. The sky had cleared a bit and
the view of the lake and of Mt Tallac was very
nice. I passed numerous tall trees,
including Ponderosa Pine, Sugar Pine (with its extraordinary large cones) and
Incense Cedar. This loop around the
lake was quite a bit longer than I had expected – maybe seven miles – and
daylight was waning by the time I reached Route 89. I spent a few moments admiring Taylor Creek
as I crossed the highway bridge, before taking the SnoPark
road back to my car.
Seven hours.